Cartier Panthère: Charged with a Magnetism


Cartier, the French brand is one of the most prestigious luxury makers of jewellery and watches. Such a legend in its designs, Cartier is one such brand that we will always crave for. Every piece crafted is a masterpiece with perfection and style. Though every jewellery from Cartier is amazing and elegant, the most popular and iconic motif Panthère has won many hearts. But what is the story behind this? And how did it become the most iconic? Let us find out and you can see the transformation of Panthère designs over the period from its first look till now.

Cartier and the Panthère

The history ofPanthère began with Jeanne Toussant, a Paris style icon who became familiar with French Jeweller louis Cartier. He remarkable determination as well as her well adorned apartment with leopard skin, she was nicknamed as La Panthère from Louis Cartier. The nickname later become the Cartier’s most stunning development in the jewellery pieces and in the year 1914, the Panthère made its first appearance which won many acclaims among the noble and elite circle.


An emblematic animal of the Maison’s menagerie, the panther has inspired Cartier’s designers since its debut appearance in 1914. Ever since, it has evolved constantly. Untamed and indomitable, it is charged with a magnetism that reveals one's strength of character.

Panthère De Cartier


A timeless Maison icon, reinvented time and time again since her first sighting in 1914. Magnetic, feline and free, the Panthère de Cartier is a force to be reckoned with.

1914

To illustrate an invitation for a jewellery exhibition, Louis Cartier commissions Lady With a Panther from George Barbier.


First appearance of the panther pattern, in onyx and diamonds, on a ladies’ wristwatch.

1915

Pierre Cartier acquires a chatelaine watch with a rectangular panther-patterned case made of onyx and diamonds.

1917

Cigarette case in diamonds, onyx and platinum, offered to Jeanne Toussaint by Louis Cartier. This marks the first figurative reproduction of a panther.

1928

Panther brooch with diamonds and black enamel spots set in platinum, on a coral and black enamel base.


Panther-patterned cigarette case and lighter in gold and black enamel, purchased by the Prince of Nepal.

1930

First bracelet of coral beads featuring a panther-patterned clasp of diamonds and onyx.

1935

Ring featuring two panthers, in yellow gold and black enamel, with a central stone of star ruby. For the first time, the panther is represented in three dimensions.

1948

Panther brooch, in yellow gold, emeralds and black enamel is created for the Duchess of Windsor. It is the first time that the panther is represented in its entirety. The Duchess also commissions a matching pair of earrings. At her request, the earrings are modified the following year.

1949

The Duchess of Windsor acquires a three-dimensional panther brooch of pavé sapphires and white and yellow diamonds. The panther is perched atop a 152.35-carat sapphire cabochon.

Design for a Golden Fleece panther brooch with articulated head and legs. Cartier Paris, 1949. Executed in platinum with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds. Acquired by Daisy Fellowes.

1958

First pair of panther-head earrings, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan with diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds.


Transformable panther brooch with articulated head and legs, which can also be worn as a clasp on a pearl necklace in diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds, commissioned by Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan.

Prince Sadruddin Aga Khan commissions the first double panther head hinged bangle made of diamonds, sapphires, and emeralds.

1963

Ladies’ cocktail rings and earrings made of fluted coral with panther pattern in pavé diamonds and onyx.

1967

María Félix commissions a bracelet with two overlapping panthers with articulated heads and legs, in platinum set with diamonds, emeralds and onyx.

1968

Double panther head brooch of diamonds, emeralds and onyx, acquired by Giovanni Agnelli.

1969

Panther brooch in gold, emeralds, lapis lazuli, black lacquer and red-enameled gold.

Panther brooch made of engraved gold, emeralds and black lacquer on sculpted hardstones, including lapis lazuli.

1980

Double-C brooch featuring two interlaced panthers in diamonds, sapphires and emeralds.

1988

Wide cuff bracelet and collar necklace in yellow and white gold from the Nouvelle Joaillerie Égypte collection.

Panther brooches in diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and onyx, featuring the animal on a branch of lapis lazuli or coral.

Bracelet with two panther heads in yellow gold and black enamel.

2003

Panthère de Cartier necklace in white gold, emeralds, diamonds and onyx.

2005

Panthère de Cartier ring in yellow gold, black lacquer, peridots and onyx.

First appearance of a stylized, faceted feline, marking the beginning of the 21st century.

2008

Panthère de Cartier brooch in white gold, set with brilliant-cut diamonds and emerald drops. Onyx and emeralds. This jewel is inspired by the brooches created by Cartier for the Duchess of Windsor in 1948.

2009

Panthère de Cartier bracelet in platinum, brilliant-cut diamonds, emeralds and onyx. This is the iconic Cartier panther. Emblematic of the Maison, it is the feline embodiment of free, assertive, elegant and sensual femininity.

2010

Medallion with a panther head motif in petrified wood, diamonds, fine pearls, emeralds and onyx. With this necklace, Cartier’s glyptician introduces rare and unexpected materials in jewellery.

2011

Panther bracelet in white gold with one 51.58-carat green beryl, onyx and diamonds. This bracelet appears in the final scene of L’Odyssée de Cartier, a Cartier film that debuted in 2012.

2012

Panthère de Cartier necklace in white gold, emeralds, onyx and brilliant-cut diamonds. This necklace offers a double porté, according to the position of the panther head on the link.

Panthère de Cartier High Jewellery ring in white gold, emeralds, onyx and diamonds. This is one of the most iconic panthers at Cartier, representing a feline playing with a center stone.

2014

Promenade d'une Panthère watch in white gold and diamonds with Automatic Manufacture movement 9603 MC.

Design and function come together in a display of style and refinement. Cartier brings the inner workings of the movement, traditionally concealed, to the fore on the dial: the oscillating weight is on display and sculpted in the shape of a moving panther. The feline seems more lively than ever.

Panthère de Cartier High Jewellery bracelet in white gold and onyx, with an emerald eye and brilliant-cut diamonds. From naturalism to abstraction, the panther motif is stylized, as its fur and spots become graphic.

High Jewellery watch in white gold, onyx and diamonds. Cartier blends two of its most iconic elements: the baguette watch and the panther. True to the Maison’s naturalistic tradition, the feline seems to protect the dial with its paws with an attitude at once playful and predatory.

La Panthère Eau de Parfum pays tribute to the emblematic animal of the Maison.

Panthère de Cartier ring in yellow gold, tsavorite garnets and onyx. Even more stylized than in 2005, Cartier creates a panther ring defined by its structured construction and interplay of lines.

2015

Panthère de Cartier necklace in yellow gold, brilliant-cut diamonds, emerald eyes and onyx.

2017

Panthère de Cartier High Jewellery necklace in platinum, aquamarines, emeralds, onyx and diamonds. The feline seems to bound through a waterfall. Its stretched, twisting silhouette realistically renders the plunging movement.

High Jewellery bracelet in yellow gold, beryl, obsidian, tsavorite garnet, onyx and diamonds. Inspired by the shape of the beryl itself, Cartier creates an illusion of depth as the translucence of the gem reveals perspective lines. The panther gazes into the beryl as if to seek its own reflection.


Révélation d’une Panthère watch in pink gold and diamonds. Mechanical Manufacture movement 430 MC. This watch showcases a miniature spectacle within the dial of a Ronde Louis Cartier watch. The wrist's movements cause a panther’s head comprising a multitude of gold beads to appear or disappear. The piece explores the ancestral technique of the hourglass: a creative feat born of five years of work, heralded by the public and consolidated with two patent applications.

Panthère de Cartier brooch in white gold, sapphires, emeralds, onyx and diamonds. This figurative panther, fully represented, evokes another appearing on a cigarette case created in 1917 and offered to Jeanne Toussaint by Louis Cartier.

Panthère de Cartier bracelet in white gold, emeralds, onyx and diamonds. This jewel offers a figurative vision of the animal as a feline, with a very realistic approach.

Ronde Louis Cartier watch in white gold, diamonds and flamed gold. Cartier revisits the flamed technique and transposes it to gold. It also associates it with the icon of the Maison in a very realistic style. Flamed gold is a world premiere in watchmaking.

2018

Panthère de Cartier necklace in white gold, emeralds and diamonds. This necklace pays tribute to the invitation for a jewellery exhibition commissioned by Louis Cartier for George Barbier, called Lady With a Panther.


High Jewellery figurative watch in white gold, sapphires, emeralds, onyx and diamonds. The panther is constantly evolving to offer unprecedented expressions of its personality. Pouncing, the feline darts towards the watch case, as if attracted by its preciousness.

The impression of movement is depicted with careful attention to each anatomical detail.

2019

La Panthère watch in yellow gold, lacquer spots and diamonds. The panther is Cartier’s double: the same strength and freedom, the same vitality and elegance. Because it has inspired designers since 1914 and because its magnetism transfigures everything it touches, the Cartier panther is recreated by as many designs as there are interpretations and facets of its personality. This untameable animal sparks energy, sensuality and strength in women.

2020

La Panthère bracelet in yellow gold, onyx, emeralds and brilliant-cut diamonds. This is the new iconic Cartier panther, the contemporary feline expression of a free, elegant and sensual femininity.


Courtesy: cartier.com

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